The One About Bodysurfing

[mamculuna]

Since Sara extolled skipping in a recent post, I want to put in a word for bodysurfing as a childhood thrill I've never outgrown. And it's been great this week.

The surf was warm and green but the breeze was coolish. Even so, I walked in slow, ankles-waist-shoulders, and finally dove under. After a few waves break around me, I'm beginning to see the rhythm, and I decide if I'm ready for one of the big ones or want to start light. Here's one, just the right size. It swells up over my head and just as it curves, foam building on the edge, I dive out in front of it, kicking like hell. It breaks just right,pushing along my body churning and shoving me out and down, and I kick harder to keep my face from being ground into the sand.

I have to wonder, is flying really better than this?

And then it drains back, and I sit back and wipe the salt water out of my eyes, and run back in.

Comments

Oh. Just smiles

[angeyja.livejournal.com]

Cape Hatteras. Camping just one dune over from the ocean. Waking up and diving in. Second kiss. Eric from PA. Being fourteen. Standing out on a sand bar very far from the beach. They look so small. Surrounded by ocean. The sky endless and huge, people strung out along the bar, the waves pulling at you. Looks over. Laughs. A small push from the feet, and an arching dive back to 180 degrees, and riding them back in.

Kneeling in the water at the shore for a moment more.

(hugs)

Beautiful.

Re: Oh. Just smiles

[mamculuna.livejournal.com]

Oh, yeah. Smiles too.

A kiss, a wave, ...

[writeonq.livejournal.com]

Oh yes. The feel of bare feet leaving concrete only to go swwosh in the sand. Playing in the waves and the knowledge that you are right in there with fish and other sea life and wind and all of a sudden you're a part of something much bigger than yourself. Even later you can lick your lips and still taste the salt, see it stay in streaks on your body.

My second kiss was at a beach, too. Or, more accurately, at a beachside hotel in Florida. I forget his name, but I beat him at pinball and the next thing you know we were kissing...

[midnightsjane.livejournal.com]

I have never been bodysurfing..clearly my life is still incomplete. One day I will visit you, and you can teach me this thing. :)
I did a lot of skipping when I was a youngster, though..double dutch was a real challenge, one I never quite mastered. Hmm, I wonder if I can still skip? must give it a try!

[mamculuna.livejournal.com]

One day you must come, indeed! My own feeling is that you're never too old to bodysurf, as long as you don't mine having sand in your ears (to say nothing of nose and mouth and probably brain--that would explain a lot).

My sister just got back from a wonderful northwest visit to her son--she got to do a drive-by of Vancouver, Victoria, and I think another nearby island. She had a glorious time. You can be sure I'll be there too--but really would love to see you here, or anywhere.

Is there an ATPO meetup in Vancouver again next year, speaking of? Is there a tentative date? I want to go to Wiscon in Madison, Wisconsin, toward the end of May--and always need to head west to go to the Bay Area.

[wombatina.livejournal.com]

mmm. I need someone to teach me how to do this.

[mamculuna.livejournal.com]

I don't know that it works in the Pacific--I always found that coast too cold for swimming. It might have bigger waves...

[mamculuna.livejournal.com]

But if you're ever on the East coast, lessons are free!